February 5th, 2024 - New Yawk New Yawk

The Big Apple, the City that Never Sleeps, Gotham... We've all heard the countless names and euphemisms. Although we recognize the titles and throw them around in conversation, have we ever taken the time to consider just why New York has garnered such a global interest to account for this many identities? To this I propose an answer. New York cannot be summed up by a simple, geographically defined appellative. It's too complex. New York is comprised of a million different personalities, nationalities, ideologies, and all the other -"ies". The location is a cultural epicenter; the general vibe is constantly in flux and impossible to describe in just a few words. "New" York isn't even that new. The city is shaped by a vibrant history and an international presence that gave (and gives) the city an unparalleled diversity. It is because of this many-ness that New York boasts one of the best food scenes in the world. And thus why I decided to spend my last stateside weekend in the lovely melting pot that is New York City.

I was fortunate enough to travel with my fellow food & wine connoisseur, poetry aficionado, and padre, Ronny. So I must give credit where credit is due; without the guidance of dad, my descriptions would be markedly less effective, and I would not be able to dine at such wonderful restaurants and drink such fabulous wine. Ronny is basically my sensei when it comes to learning how to taste and describe dishes & drinks across the globe. So shoutout to the big guy.

Over the course of our weekend, we were able to dine at the following Michelin restaurants:

Gabriel Kreuther - 2 stars, 6 courses

Masa - 3 stars, 26 courses

The Modern - 2 stars, 10 courses

Each restaurant brought to the table a specific type of culinary form and approach ranging from Omakase platters to modern American twists to French delicacies. Call my language hyperbolic, but I think my palate expanded more in three days than it has in 22 years.

That said, let's get into the highlights from each restaurant:

1. The Modern - Duck, aged three weeks, king trumpet mushrooms and yuzu:

Let me preface this description by informing you that I've never been a fan of duck. This dish made me a fan of duck. Though you can't see the cutlery in the photo, this dish was served with an impeccably balanced and sharpened knife that cut through the meat with effortless ease and precision. The duck itself was surrounded by a crispy, flavorful skin whose texture was specifically achieved by three weeks of aging. The skin was spiced well, not too overpowering, and complementary of the meat. The duck meat was cooked medium, which was the perfect level to bring out the savory taste with the (very very slight) gamey undertone. A surprise addition to this dish was the king trumpet mushroom component. They were outstanding in terms of flavor profile and packed a robust punch for what would otherwise be considered a delicate, nutty fungus. The jus and yuzu dallop blended together to create a roasted citrus harmony when combined with the duck, adding a level of balance to the otherwise unctuous dish. Stellar choice of ingredients and the time that went into this dish is evident upon the first bite.

2. Masa - Ohmi beef tataki with shaved truffles:

Unfortunately, photos were not allowed at this meal, so I had to do some google searching to find an accurate portrayal of the dish. Warning: the presentation was prettier in person. This dish might be one of the most successful dishes I've tasted in terms of channeling richness but maintaining delicacy. The wagyu was sliced thinly enough to allow the truffle flavor to complement, rather than be overpowered by, the marbled, buttery beef. The lack of sauce and spice in this dish was a wise decision on the chef's part. Adding only a light sprinkle of salt and pepper meant the strong flavors of the two ingredients could speak for themselves. This dish cost extra, and it is no surprise why as both truffle and wagyu are pricey ingredients due to the general rarity of truffles and the special diet/handling of Japanese wagyu cows. However, in my opinion, this dish is worth the extra penny for the expert fusion of two one-of-a-kind flavors.

3. Gabriel Kreuther - Seared Sullivan County Foie Gras

As the youth say, this is my dream blunt rotation. This dish consisted of quince purée, streusel pain d'épice, and beerawecka chutney. The crisp, zesty citrus flavor of the apple from the streusel perfectly offset the fatty, rich flavor profile of the foie gras. Interestingly enough, this was not a dessert but a mid-course dish. This dish skillfully blended savory and sweet (my favorite combination) in a way that was innovative and satisfactory. Though there were clearly honeyed and succulent notes throughout the plate, by no means was this dish too sugary. Texture wise, the sear on the face of the foie gras contrasted the velvety smooth composition of fattened liver quite well. Overall, this made the cut for standout dishes thanks to its interplay with textures, bursts of elegant flavors, and creative blending of ingredients.

That's all for now, and I'll leave the conclusion of this post to one of my favorite artists:

“One can't paint New York as it is, but rather as it is felt.” – Georgia O'Keefe

Thank you and keep an eye out for my next post! May or may not have something to do with what a day in my life looks like here in Scotland...